La Makha’s culinary philosophy: a taxonomy of colombian flavor
At the heart of La Makha’s culinary philosophy lies a profound reflection on the origin and identity of its ingredients. Chef David Suárez Estrada has developed a unique conceptual framework to classify the products he uses, based on their history, provenance, and cultural meaning. This taxonomy is not an academic exercise but rather the compass that guides the creation of each dish, ensuring that the restaurant’s cuisine is an authentic and conscious expression of the Colombian territory. Understanding these three categories—exotic-creole, native, and endemic—is essential to appreciating the philosophical depth behind every bite.
1. Endemic ingredients: the unique treasures of the Land
Endemic ingredients are those that grow naturally only within a specific Colombian ecosystem and nowhere else in the world. They are the country’s greatest treasures and the crown jewels of La Makha’s cuisine.
Definition and examples:
- Chontaduro (Bactris gasipaes): Known as the “fruit of the gods” in the Amazon and Pacific regions.
- Curuba de indio (Paracress): An Amazonian leaf with explosive, slightly anesthetic properties.
- Cubios (Tropaeolum tuberosum): Andean tubers of vibrant purple or yellow color with a spicy flavor.
Impact on the menu:
These ingredients are the true protagonists of the dishes. Their rarity and singularity demand techniques that exalt their qualities without altering their essence. The chef treats them with the reverence of a jeweler cutting a gemstone: with precision and respect. A smoked chontaduro purée or an “Indian curuba caviar” are not mere garnishes; they are statements of principle about the value of the unique and the local.
2. Native ingredients: the pillars of culinary heritage
Native ingredients are those originally from Colombia or the Andean-Amazonian region, but that over time have spread and adapted to other lands. They are the foundation of the country’s diet and gastronomic culture.
Definition and examples:
- Papa criolla (Solanum phureja): Hundreds of varieties exist in Colombia alone.
- Yuca (Manihot esculenta): A staple tuber in the diet of all regions.
- Ají peppers (Capsicum spp): Such as the Pacific’s ají chontaduro or Bahía Solano’s black ají.
Impact on the menu:
These ingredients represent the connection with tradition. La Makha doesn’t reinvent them but elevates them through techniques that enhance their flavor and texture. A yuca purée sifted to silky smoothness or a causa made with papa criolla are examples of honoring the familiar through technical perfection. They are the bridge between the grandmother cooking over firewood and fine dining.
3. Exotic-Creole Ingredients: The Diaspora That Became Its Own
This is perhaps the most fascinating category. These are ingredients that arrived in Colombia during colonization or migration but, over the centuries, have adapted so deeply to the land and culture that they became unique, creolized versions.
Definition and examples:
- Creole pigs: Breeds such as Zungo or Casco de Mula, brought by the Spanish but evolved in isolation.
- Citrus fruits: Lemons, oranges, and mandarins that developed unique flavor profiles in Colombian soils.
- Wheat and barley: Cultivated in Boyacá and Nariño, used to produce flours and beers with a distinct terroir.
Impact on the menu:
These ingredients represent hybridity and resilience. La Makha uses them to showcase how Colombia has absorbed external influences and made them its own. A confit creole pork or a Caribbean mandarin-lime sauce are narratives of mestizaje—not only cultural but also gastronomic.
4. The Interaction of Categories on the Plate
The brilliance of La Makha’s menu lies in how these categories converse within the same dish. For example, the famous “Rockfish with bijao and guatila”:
- Endemic: Bijao leaf powder (Amazon).
- Native: Guatila (chayote), a pre-Hispanic agricultural staple.
- Exotic-creole: Citrus from the Sierra Nevada that acidify the sauce.
This dialogue is no accident; it tells a story of interconnected biodiversity, where the ancient and the adopted coexist in harmony.
5. Impact on Menu Identity
This classification allows La Makha to build a gastronomic identity that is:
- Geolocatable: Every dish can be mapped onto Colombian territory.
- Culturally honest: It recognizes pre-Hispanic roots, colonial contributions, and modern innovations.
- Educational: It teaches diners about Colombia’s biocultural richness.
- Ethical: By prioritizing native and endemic ingredients, it contributes to their conservation and economic value.
A Cuisine with Awareness of Origin
La Makha proves that fine dining should not be an exercise in importing trends but a deep exploration of what is our own. By categorizing and understanding the origin of its ingredients, the restaurant creates a cuisine that is both rooted and avant-garde, traditional and innovative. It is a model inspiring a new generation of Colombian chefs to look inward to find their culinary voice.
Ready to taste cuisine with roots and conscience?
Every dish at La Makha is a lesson in history, biodiversity, and innovation.
Reserve your table to experience La Makha’s rooted cuisine: Discover how the flavors of Colombia are classified, celebrated, and elevated to their fullest expression.
